- This machine should not be operated without induction.
- This machine should not be left unattended during operation.
- This tool should not be used while alone in the space - lone working rule.
Wadkin BAOS 12 Planar Thicknesser
Thicknessing Capacity: 310x180mm
Length of Table: 710mm
Width of surface tables: 310mm
Rise and Fall of surface tables: 15mm
Maximum depth of rebate: 11mm
Length of fence: 760mm
Height of fence: 110mm
Fence cants up to: 45
Cutter block diameter: 100mm
Speed of cutterblock: 5000rpm
No of cutters: 3
Cutterblock Power: 2.2Kw
Feed Roller Diameters: 50mm
Feed Speeds: 4.5 & 9meters/min
Gross Weight: 445kg
Floor Space: 1200x1220mm
This is a 3 phase planer/thicknesser, for smoothing and squaring timber to an accurate and flat shape.
2nd hand in very good condition.
Induction and Training
Planer/Thicknesser waiting list (Add link when list created)
What the Planer/Thicknesser does:
The planer/thicknesser is used to create 3 square, flat edges. Used in combination with the Table Saw, this combination will yield a perfectly square flat board, ready for use.
The Planer is used to get one flat face and one square edge, using the table and fence, which directs the timber over the cylindrical cutters. Once planed, the board is passed through the thicknesser, giving your workpiece 3 edges square and flat, before moving onto the Table Saw for the final part.
PPE and Safety Review:
- Do not let any part of your body or clothing come within 30cm (1ft) of the blade whilst it is moving. Instead, use push blocks with a notched end to retain greater control (more on this below)
- Do not wear loose clothing
- Ensure long hair, jewellery, and any clothing drawstrings are securely tied back
- Safety glasses are mandatory
- Extraction should be used at all times
- Masks should be used by all woodshop users
- Ear defenders or ear plugs must be worn by everyone in the woodshop, as this is a very loud tool
- Sensible footwear with sturdy toes and a small heel should be worn at all times in the workshop. Steel toe-caps are a bonus.
- Do not wear gloves - they are an entanglement risk with woodworking machine tools
- As with any power tool - be sober and alert. Do not use the planer/thicknesser when tired
- No Lone working with Power Tools
- Always isolate the tool (turn off the power) before going within 30cm of the blade, or exposing the blade
- Defects must be reported to @woodtechs
- If the machine is struggling, making strange noises or smoke is coming out. Turn off the machine immediately and contact the @woodtechs.
Anatomy of the tool:
1. Controls - the controls for the planer/thicknesser are accessible from the operator’s position. The green button is used to turn the machine on, while the red turns the machine off. Please Note: these buttons do not isolate the machine.
2. Emergency Stop - As well as the red push stop button next to the power button, there is also an emergency stop button below the in-feed table, to make sure the operator can always reach one easily if needed. Remember - emergency stop buttons are generally damage limitation - bad things are usually already happening by the time they are hit. Try to avoid this by preparing carefully.
3. Power Control - Once the power is activated by tool control, you can isolate/de-isolate the machine using the switch on the wall, then use the green power button on the planer/thicknesser controls to turn it on.
4. Feed Rate Control - This must always be checked before starting a cut on both the planer and thicknesser. When using the planer, the dial must be set to OFF. This is to prevent the feed rollers pulling the dust extraction into the machine. When thicknessing, this must be set to either slow or fast, but NEVER OFF, as your wood will not be pulled through the machine. Slow will give you a better finish, and should be used when making final passes.
1. Planer Fence – This metal fence sits on the Planer in-feed and out-feed tables. It remains perfectly perpendicular against the tables, but can be adjusted to create bevelled edges.
2. Planer Table – This is the large, flat steel surface with a break in the middle containing the cutting blades. Timber is fed from right-to-left along this table, passing over the cutting blades. If long pieces of timber are to be planed, a second person or out-feed support is needed to ensure the board remains coplanar to the out-feed table.
3. Thicknesser Table – This is the large, flat steel surface that sits below the planer table. Timber is fed from left-to-right along this table, passing between the table and the cutting blades. More detail on how boards are fed through the machine are detailed further down.
4. Planer Blade Guard – This guard should always cover the cutting blades, unless during specific times, which will be outlined below. The blade guard is also used to keep the dust extraction system against the table when thicknessing.
Moving the Machine
To use the machine, it needs to be moved into the open space:
- Before moving the machine, turn on the compressor (3).
- When the compressor turns off, connect the hose to the machine (2). As soon as the hose is connected, the air will flow and the machine will move on the hover pads (2).
- To seat the machine, remove the air flow by disconnecting the hose.
(To disconnect, pull back the sleeve on the outlet, while pulling the compressor hose feed away from the female connector of the planer/thicknesser)
Prepare your material/planning your cut
A planer/thicknesser is used to make boards square, whether these boards are already roughly shaped or not. Some of the more common issues that a planer/thicknesser is used for are shown below, as well as how these boards are to be shown to the planer/thicknesser.
An important consideration is grain direction, understanding the difference between “against the grain” and “with the grain”. Boards should always be planed and thicknessed “with the grain” to mitigate tearout.
Cupping, bowing and crooked boards – When planning these boards, the crest (hump) of the board should always face upwards.
Twisting – This is trickier to plane. It requires even, constant pressure to be applied when pushing the board over the cutting blades. This will be explained in the induction or else ask a @woodtechs for advice.
Planing (Sometimes called jointing) Preperation
General notes before beginning your cut:
- Do not put plywood, MDF or chipboard through the planer
- Do not plane end grain, such as cutting boards or cross-grain timber
- Make sure all the gates are closed except for the planer/thicknesser.
- DO NOT plane boards less than 25cm in length as there isn’t enough area to hold down with the guard in place.
Isolate the machine from the Power Supply, to reduce risk or injury during set-up. You cannot re-attach fingers that have been removed by the planer/thicknesser blades.
- As with any material going into one of our powerful and valuable tools - your material must be guaranteed free of screws/nails, etc… Do not put reclaimed timber over or through the planer/thicknesser without discussing with a woodtech.
Before using the planer, ensure the dust extraction is placed below the cutters. This is done by dropping the thicknesser table and sliding the extraction system below the cutting wheel. Ensure this does not contact the cutting blades and the feed rollers are turned off.
ADJUSTING THE IN-FEED TABLE HEIGHT
Unlock the sliding table by turning knob (1) anti-clockwise as well as the drive side table lock cover, which is located behind the in-feed fence.
Using knob (3) you’re able to drop the in-feed table, giving you a deeper cut. Clockwise lifts, anti-clockwise lowers. When setting the depth, always turn (3) clockwise after dropping the table to ensure the in-feed table sits co-planar to the cutters.
The cut thickness is the difference between the in-feed table and the out-feed table. To reduce the depth of cut, simply release knob (1) and turn knob (3) clockwise. You can use the depth gauge (2) to get accurate measurements.
To check the cut depth, place a piece of timber or ruler extending from the out-feed table, over the cutting block to the in-feed table (DO NOT rest the material on the cutting blades). The distance between the table and the bottom of the material will be your cut depth. Aim to have this around 1/32" (0.8mm) to a maximum of 1/16" (1.5mm).
The key thing to remember is to take less material, but more passes. This is the same advice for a hand plane.
Before making the cut, ensure knob (1) and the drive side table lock cover has been locked off by turning clockwise.
ADJUSTING THE OUT-FEED TABLE HEIGHT
- DO NOT adjust the out-feed table height. This has been set by @woodtechs. If you notice you’re getting snipe on the end of your boards, contact the @woodtechs as someone has moved the table and it needs to be readjusted.
Positioning the blade guard for cutting
The first step is to decide which face you will be planning and set the guard and fence accordingly.
Knob (1) unlocks the blade guard, allowing it to slide back and forth using the handle (2), the blade guard must always be positioned against the Fence when using the planer (4). When planning the face of a board, the Blade Guard is to be set no more than 3 mm above the board on the out-feed table. This is to ensure the users hands/fingers cannot pass between the board and the guard. Use (3) to adjust the height of the blade guard.
When planning the edge of a board (5), the blade guard is to be moved as close as possible to the timber, covering the exposed cutters. Care must be taken when finishing the cut as the cutting blades will be exposed.
At all times, you must set up your cut as close to the front edge of the machine, ensuring the minimal amount of blade is exposed and avoiding the potential of over-reaching.
Setting the fence:
Knob (1) unlocks the fence, allowing the user to adjust the angle of the fence, giving boards a chamfered/oblique edge, as opposed to a perfectly 90° edge. If this is adjusted, ensure it’s returned to 90° for the next user.
Knob (2) unlocks the fence, while knob (3) moves the fence along the table. When cutting, the fence should be moved against the blade guard, unless planning the edge of a board.
Making the Cut (Face)
Ensure dust extraction is turned on and all gates are closed, except for the one to the planer/thicknesser.
Push material along the in-feed table towards the cutting blades, ensuring you keep firm downward pressure as you push the board forward.
Keep hands away from the blade guard as much as possible. We have two push-blocks which can be used in place of your hands. You will be shown both methods during your induction.
When enough material has passed onto the out-feed table, you transfer your left-hand to the out-feed table, passing over the cutting blade. DO NOT run your hand over the blade guard.
Your pressure is now concentrated on the out-feed table.
Transfer your hand right hand to the out-feed table when enough timber has passed over.
Repeat this process until a uniform surface is achieved. Running pencil marks along the board allows you to easily see if you have removed enough material.
Making the Cut (Edge)
Push material along the in-feed table towards the cutting blades, ensuring you keep firm horizontal pressure against the fence, as well as downwards pressure against the in-feed table, as you push the board forward.
Keep hands away from the blade guard where possible. We have two push-blocks which can be used if you don’t feel comfortable having your hands close to the cutters. You will be shown both methods during your induction.
Constant horizontal pressure is to be maintained throughout the entire cut. When edging thinner boards, ensure your hands do not pass over the cutter.
Repeat this process until a uniform edge is achieved. Running pencil marks along the board allows you to easily see if you have removed enough material.
Once the above process is completed, you will have two perfectly flat surfaces that are perpendicular to each other.
General notes before beginning:
Do not put plywood, MDF or chipboard through the thicknesser
Do not thickness end grain, such as cutting boards or cross-grain timber.
Make sure all the gates are closed except for the planer/thicknesser.
When thicknessing pieces shorter than **(Check distance between in-feed rollers)**cm, use a push stick that’s thinner than your material, to push your material into the machine.
Isolate the machine from the Power Supply to reduce risk or injury during set-up. You cannot re-attach fingers that have been removed by the planer/thicknesser blades.
As with any material going into one of our powerful and valuable tools - your material must be guaranteed free of screws/nails, etc… Do not use reclaimed timber with the planer/thicknesser without discussing with a @woodtechs.
Thicknessing generally follows planning, as you’re now looking to create a flat parallel face to your first face.
Thicknessing is also used to bring boards down to a desired thickness.
Thicknessing thinner pieces of timber will require a baseboard of no less than 9mm (discuss with a @woodtechs if you’re unsure).
When thicknessing long lengths, ensure the ends are supported, otherwise a step (snipe) will appear on either side of both ends.
Before using the thicknesser, ensure the dust extraction is placed above the cutters. It is locked in place by sliding the blade guard through the dust extraction. Ensure the machine is cleaned after use.
Adjusting the in-feed table height
Release the locking lever (1) and adjust the height of the table using the table rise and fall wheel (2). Precise measurements can be achieved using the measuring guide alongside the in-feed table (4). To help feed your timber through the cutter, adjusting the Pressure Bar Setting (3) is recommended. When cutting softwoods, setting 0-1 is advised, whereas settings 2-3 is preferred for hard woods. If you notice indentations across your workpiece from the out-feed rollers, reducing the Pressure Bar Setting.
Wider boards will likely need a slow feed rate to avoid straining the motor if a deep cut is taken. Where possible, try reducing the amount of strain on the motor. Shallower cuts with more passes is advised. It will also give you a better finish.
Once your piece moves through the cutters, it’s advisable to turn the handle 1/4 - 1/2 turn only. This will move the table up slightly and avoid deep cuts being taken.
Always lock the locking lever (1) before passing your material through the machine.
Ensure the in-feed and out-feed tables are waxed (candle-wax) before use, this allows your timber to slide easily across the surface
Ensure all feed tables are completely clear - remove any scraps, offcuts, screws, notes, phones, teacups, etc…
Ensure sufficient space available at both ends of the blade for the full length of your cut - move any stacked wood, bins, or other obstacles as necessary.
Tell everyone around you what you are about to do - make sure anyone using the workbenches or lathe is aware. Advise them that this is a good time to put on ear defenders and masks (if needed).
Checks before use:
Spare parts enquiry form - Made via their contact page.
Health and Safety documentation
HSE best practice