I was trying to replace the old tormek stone with the new one.
Unfortunately the old tormek stone is pretty well rusted onto the shaft.
I would suggest getting a stainless steel replacement one like this one
Tormek needs new shaft
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Just to reiterate the tormek is out of order until the shaft is replaced.
The new shafts are stainless so don’t rust and have a mechanism that makes it easy to change the stone if required.
It would be good to get something sorted so tools can be sharpened once again
@directors can the woodshop card be issued to someone who can take care of these things? @Julia , @Giles, @LuptonM … I know you guys know what’s missing usually, Julia has been involved in getting many things for the space maintanance-wise…
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I may as well buy it – unless someone with a prepaid card buys it I have virtually the same admin overhead to reimburse a purchase
I can buy it then as have laser and toilet cards to save the admin overheads then, but thought someone who’s present could get a woodshop prepaid card maybe.
Who’s up for this? Would be excellent to have some new woodtechs too!
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Damn: out of stock
EDIT: ordered from Axminster
EDIT 2: It’s arrived – will drop it off over the weekend
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I am going into the workshop later in the week.
Where did abouts have you dropped off the shaft in the space?
I’ll put the tormek back together and get it working again
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It’s on a shelf above the cross cut saw
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Was there a reason that when the tormek wheel was replaced triton was the stone of choice?
The original stone (tormek) is only a few quid dearer but has the advantage of changing grits with the grader stone.
Also can the triton stone be levelled with the tormek diamond ?
Think the tormek stone is twice the price. I put a Triton stone on an old tormek I have at my parents and was happy with it’s preformance
The Triton stone can be levelled with the diamond tool like the tormek one.
Supposedly it can be graded as well but I did found it basically ate the Triton grading stone which suggests it’s quite hard wearing !
Most people will hone from a 1000 grit stone onwards so won’t make much difference. If a finer grind is needed than the saving would cover buying a super old tormek (one which used a drill) which has a natural sand stone at approx 1000grit
That’s why the tormek would have been a better choice, with the grading stone, the tormek can be both 220 and 1000 in one wheel
I noticed a couple of nicks on the rim of the new Tormek stone today (see photo)
Some woodturners advocate grinding a small “bevel” on both sides of the stone; would it prevent this? Is that a good idea?
The Tormek was pretty beaten up when I got there today; several deep nicks all over the wheel. So I used the diamond trueing and dressing tool in accordance with instructions and Tormek’s video at https://youtu.be/fHD9GezQgwI. Took off a fair amount of stone to get it flat again, which is OK, but could not get near the large nicks on the edge (see post above) - they are just too deep. In the process a misadjustment cut a groove in the right side of the wheel, but it’s right at the edge so not too much of a problem.
re. the new Triton wheel: it is labelled 220 grit, which seems coarse compared to the Tormek wheel’s 1000 grit. I cannot get that mirror finish with it when sharpening lathe tools, in fact there is visible grooving on the bevel. Is this to be expected, or am I doing something wrong?
Would better quality wheel (like original from tormek) withstand more than a cheapo?
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Good question, I don’t know.
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I think we need to replace the triton with at least the original wheel, tormek do have diamond wheels now but they are expensive. Also the diamond truing tool does wear out and a bit worried that the triton is too hard for it to be used on.
- 1 here for getting another original
- 1 for proper training (either the triton is chipped through misuse or it is poor quality, either could be true)
We should be classing ourselves as a professional wood workshop and equipping ourselves accordingly!
We have hundreds of members and when we fully open post restrictions the wood workshop will be used every day by multiple members.
It is time to stop the make do and mend attitude.
Lidl and Aldi tools are great for someone to try a tool cheaply at home but sometimes they can be so bad they can put the buyer off of woodworking for life,
Worse they can be dangerous.
Shop brands such as triton scheppach and erbauer have their place and are great for home diy and infrequent use.
But you will never see one of these in a professional workshop nor owned by a tradesman that relies on his tools for a living.
They have spent more on their tools but they know they can rely on them day after day to do the job they are supposed to do
I have to agree with @lewisss on this one. A original Tormek stone is 87 quid inc VAT from Axminster:
Hardly a lot to pay for such an essential piece of workshop equipment. And it permits grading to 1000 grit with the grader we already have:
It does not seem clear from this thread whether the Triton wheel supports this “re-grading” process. And we must consider the cost of the tools themselves - a considerable investment across all the chisels, turning tools, planes etc. If a cheaper stone significantly reduces their life, it’s not much of an economy.
The pits and nicks in the Triton stone yesterday were extensive (see my comments previously in this thread) - I would have taken photos to illustrate but I did not have my phone with me. I have NEVER seen the Tormek stone in such condition, so unless the last week has seen unusually unskilled and untrained users I would conclude it has more to do with the Triton stone itself, or perhaps different practices using it.
So +1 from me for buying an original Tormek stone. Perhaps we can use the Triton for special applications or for training purposes.
While we are at it, can we order some honing paste? The tube is empty and it only costs 8 pounds a tube.
I would check to see if the 250 mm wheel fits rather than getting the 200 it will last a lot longer