Prusa I3 on a budget

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(Daniel Sikar) #206

I’m budgeting to come every Tuesday till the week before Christmas - hoping it will be done before then :slight_smile:
The only part missing yesterday was a spacer / stand off type brass part not requires for every of the 7 builds which amazingly @laurent_muchacho has a clear picture in his head.

(Pete Hellyer) #207

Is this a part I should have ordered?

(Daniel Sikar) #208

It has been spotted @Dermot said he’ll have a look around

(laurent_muchacho) #209

@dsikar and @Dermot can guide other in regards to what we done last night.

Unfortunately as explained previously all my time now is locked on packing and getting ready to move house in the second week of December mostly on my own except for the big stuff that we booked man and van so anyone fancy giving me hand your welcome :grinning: after that I have 4 days and going to France for Christmas until January so I will try to post instructions as I can

@mikekelly if you want to pickup your kit you’ll need to pickup the box with your name and other parts I can try to detail all this later on tonight maybe

@dsikar the link of instruction was posted above in previous post I’ll fish it later

(Mike Kelly) #210

No hurry @laurent_muchacho. If you are not going to be around for a bit I will probably press ahead with the build, either at the space if people are still going to continue the build sessions in the meantime (maybe a weekend session would be good?) or at home.
Good luck with the move!

(laurent_muchacho) #211

things we learned the other night oups :open_mouth:

M10 threaded rod should be 370mm in length (and not 435 as previously mentioned)

So when assembling the y-axis start by the front like this you got the extra length sticking at the back or grab a hacksaw ask the metal worker a few arch to shorten them if it bother you.


(Mike Kelly) #212

I’m considering finishing my aluminium frame with black spray paint. I’m thinking I should probably de-oxidise it and prime it first. Can any @metaltechs advise on the best approach - and do we have any aluminium primer in the space? The frames are pictured in the Nov 21 post above.

(William Webber) #213

I’m not an expert, but recently made some aluminium camera extensions. I sprayed them with grey etch primer, leave to harden for a few days and rubbed down with 1200 grit wet and dry.

The etch primer is designed to bite into the surface and provide a good key.

I then sprayed both black gloss and black Matt with good results.

You can buy these from Halfords. Also got good results on clear cast acrylic.

(Mike Kelly) #214

Making some progress here…

Does that extruder set up look right Laurent? Not sure about the printed part which holds the circular fan - it is touching the hotend which doesn’t seem right.

Also a few issues: none of the screws were the right length for one of the corners of the lid of the extruder box - the corner which needs a shorter screw.

Also the heatbed (MK2) requires countersunk screws - the ones in the box at the space which were labelled countersunk are actually button headed, so they protrude above the surface of the heatbed. Or did I miss the countersunk ones?

(Dermot Jones) #215

Nice work

@laurent_muchacho a few questions there

(Mike Kelly) #216

Did a bit more on this today. All my X, Y and Z movements working OK, extruder motor working, hotend heating up OK, fans running :slight_smile:

I just need to get the heatbed sorted out and do a lot of cable tidying… And hope that the filament feed is working as planned.

If anyone is in the space it would be great if you could have a look to see if there are M3 x 6 countersunk bolts. I missed them when I was picking up my bits and pieces.

(laurent_muchacho) #217

Take a picture of what you mean about the extruder I’ll try to post some pictures for you tonight

The countersunk screw are definitely in the. Box I did saw them on

(Mike Kelly) #218

Hi @laurent_muchacho This is a picture looking up from the printer bed to the extruder:

The printed fan holder is touching one side of the hotend. (The side next to the pinda probe.) I heated it up with Printrun and it seemed OK, so perhaps that is not an issue?

I’m a bit unclear about the heated bed: can I print directly onto the bed with the countersunk bolts in the centre? I don’t know if they will be flush with the surface. Or should I cover the bed with a sheet of glass?

Also, should there be a cover for the heated bed power connectors? Probably easy enough to print one up once the thing is up and running.

Any pics which show cable management and connections to the board would be great. But I know you are in the middle of moving, so i will be patient :slight_smile:
I might nip down to the space today to look for countersunk bolts…

(Dean Forbes) #219

a test piece to asses your printers with (wip)

(laurent_muchacho) #220

The cover for the heated is in a separate box I brought last time I was in they are dark grey colour and made of abs so they will handle a bit better as they straight in contact to the bed.

Extruder look like this for me

You really have to fiddle to get it right but if it touch it will melt the fan shroud mounted like in the picture is fine however if you have some aluminium tape you can use it as shield

It is primordial that the cable track neatly behind the extruder your carriage will need to move all the way to the left and get contact with the endstop

The problems wiring

This need to back and create a loop like in the Prusa instructions for extruder assembly even if the different that part need to be followed

Make absolutely sure the cable don’t get pinched when mounting the extruder otherwise there is a super high probability the wires will get broken and you are good for cut open and rewire

I hope this helps

(Mike Kelly) #221

Thanks, that is a bit clearer.
I picked up the cover for the heatbed cables, thanks. No c/sunk bolts though, so I will order some and get some extra for everyone else in case the original ones don’t show up.

Can I print straight onto the bed with the bolts in the centre or do I need to cover it with glass?

(laurent_muchacho) #222

Absolutely not unless you want to buy an other bed after a couple of print

(laurent_muchacho) #223

I’ll get back to you soon as I’m in my old home I got a few link

(Mike Kelly) #224

Looks like I should be using some PEI sheet like this: Amazon link

Edit: Did the heatbeds not come with PEI? AliExpress link

(laurent_muchacho) #225

Nope at the time we ordered the bed this option was not available bed were sold separately and without standoff. Now a day they are bundled with PEI sheet and standoff

PEI work great but you must only use acetone once in a while otherwise it will damage it, regular cleaning with Isopropyl Alcohol work best but this don’t remove residual grease as good as acetone. I bought 5 liter over 3 or 4 years ago and just refill a small bottle when needed it’s the best things

Consider buying this option instead. You’ll get a spring steel sheet that you can stick the PEI onto it and to make it stick to the bed get some magnetic sheets you’ll 4 bed out of this so you can resell the leftover to the other people in the build

So in the end you get the best options a removable building surface and never have a tug of war with your printer and the freedom switching the surface you print on by just having multiple spring sheet

B&Q also has steel or stainless steel sheet under 1mm but you have to cut them to size that will work but B&Q is notoriously expensive and ebay tend to have poor packaging so your sheet might arrive bent or with dent nothing too bad bu still a bit annoying