Plumbing for pressure washer

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#21

Just to update - Andy and I had a good look at the plumbing set up and it seems to be as follows:

The outside tap has a direct 22mm feed from somewhere whcih then goes down to 15mm for the last few feet. This has good water flow as you would expect and will run a pressure washer fine. It will ,however, be susceptible to freezing. In fact, I can’t believe that that pipe hasn’t blown before. The insulation is completely shot. Ideally, you’d drain it if there’s a cold snap.

The internal pipework does not have the same level of flow. This will probably be because of numerous connections and bends in the 15mm pipework that’s reducing the flow. There’s nothing that can really be done about this. I doubt that the flow rate will meet the 6 litres/minute minimum. It’s easy enough to test. Get a half litre jug and see if you can fill it up in 5 secounds. Running a pressure washer without enough water flow will knacker it.

The bath tap arrangement in the silk screen sink area is apparently knackered. I’ll come along and replace it at some stage and I’ll get a replacement with a shower hose attachment. I could also put on a tap point for a pressure washer but I’ll need to check the flow rate first.

Philip

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#22

Yeah the outside pipe has frozen and rubbished many times. The flow rate from the outside pipe is totally dependent on Demand on the system if they’ve got the taps on in the previous few arches the flow rate drops to zero if no one else is using water it has decent flow rate. As for pressure washer I think a tap without check valve and it would probably work.

The main water supply used to have a much better pressure than it currently does but it is plums around the space in a slightly chaotic manner in 15 millimeter pipe

#23

Thanks Philip!

#24

Good point Joe,
As you are at the end of the pipe run, anyone with the water on earlier on in the run will take all the flow. So really, even with the outside tap, you are going to have to be very careful when using a pressure washer.
Phil

#25

Our outside tap is no longer connected to the « communal » supply outside.

#26

Seems like we reconnected it to the communal supply from the neighbouring arches… hence the freeze risk is going to be an issue in the winter unless we do something about it…

@PhilH - when you are working on the plumbing can you have a look at the dishwasher - apparently there was a puddle below it this morning, thanks so much!

Cheers,
Andy

#27

almost zero flow from other supply

#28

Hi Alls,

I haven’t forgotten about this. I looked at the current tap and it not the standard width between the pipes making it tricky to find a suitable replacement. Also, it has to be a low pressure version not a hi pressure one.
I may end up trying to repair the current one instead of replacing it entirely.
Philip

#29

Ok cool thanks!!

Was going to remind you soon :slight_smile:

#30

What’s up with the tap looks pretty normal to me

#31

Hi Joe,

Standard bath tap hole spacing is 180mm between centres. The current tap is a cranked type which means that it can accommodate different spacing between the holes and hence the holes are not the standard distance apart. At least, that’s what it looked like when I measured them a week or so ago.
You can get replacement cranked bath taps but they are expensive and you also need to find ones that are suitable for low pressure supply.
Hence, i’m going to see if I can repair the current one.
Philip

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#32

Sorry you’re talking about that tap it needs to go to the scrapyard.

Just replace the whole thing I will have a look in my scrap bin, I suspect all the scrap taps I’ve got need cartridges.

Will keep an eye out for suitable tap .

Remember it’s a workshop it doesn’t have to look pretty it just has to work so sticking another tap it in and blocking off the holes there’s no big deal

#33

ok. We could get a cheap, low pressure tap then and then chuck a new wooden base on top of the old one and drill new holes.

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#34

Sounds like a plan, that supply used to have good pressure maybe we should think about putting a pump in . Because by the time it gets the toilet in arch too there’s going to be no pressure left, when I run the pipe it was adequate pressure and flow but these days I suspect it’s going to be hopeless

#35

HI Joe,

A pump is not a bad idea but unless you have the water flow to feed it, it’ll just burn out. To guarantee decent water flow, you’ll need a large header tank and a pump. That way the tank fills up all the time and the pump can access it whenever it needs it. It’s an easy enough system to install. Phil

#36

Hi Guys,
Was planning on getting this sorted this week. Alas, I taken off my bike by an electric scooter rider and have now got a badly busted collar bone. Annoying in the extreme and probably out for 8 weeks.

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#37

Hey Philip!

Ouch, sounds bad, take care!

Get well soon,
Andy

#38

@PhilH would this work?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204493059930?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=rvp8SWzgQZa&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=_pGoBIb3RAe&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Or this?

Im not a high / low pressure expert…

#39

Hi Andy, yes that is definitely suitable for low pressure systems and it also looks like it’s got cranked legs making them adjustable. I reckon it’ll work.

Phil

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#40

Is it wise, and cost efficient to replace an old leaky tap with what looks like another old leaky tap?

Remember a jet wash is required in that room for cleaning screens, so it requires somewhere to attach a hose.

Three of these would work , tee of cold supply to one cold with a garden spray hose attachment, another cold for the jet wash.
And one for hot if necessary

https://www.screwfix.com/p/lever-ball-valve-red-blue-15mm/8247v

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