Well perhaps not death, but zombiedom!
The display on the Ultimaker is emulating a Norwegian parrot.
I first noticed it two weeks ago, but it’s now a lot worse.
I reckon that within two weeks you’ll only be able to use the m/c if you can remember the required key sequence.
Need a new display!
Eek. How generic is the part?
Oh!
@laurent_muchacho we can ask Ultimaker for a replacement screen.
Can be used via USB in the meantime, via CURA
This seems a tricky part to find after a quick look around the only one I can find is from aliexpress and I hate buying from this platform, you never know if you’ll be getting the stuff.
I guess first we need to contact Ultimaker UK to make sure that us tinkering with the machine will not void some sort of warranty or can we do whatever we want. Maybe they are willing to get that part of us even if we have to pay for it. Might be better than aliexpress and maybe not much more expensive.
If we can tinker I’ll open it up and check the connector maybe they just did get loose over time with usage
Finally I think it’s time I bring that Raspberry pi and we free ourself from being dependant to that silly scroll wheel and tiny LCD 
ps: the firmeware is likely out of date and I should update it but there is a risk I broke it as I have not done it before the space will need to make a call and decide if we do that upgrade
This history of the laser cutter suggests swallowing pride and ordering the official part without delay. Assuming that is possible.
I think it might make sense to look at the control board first to see what the cause is, if the issue is a loose cable then it could be fixed, versus a corroded circuit board from the high humidity in the past.
Please feel free to contact Ultimaker on behalf of SLMS to see if a fix/spare is available. I agree with Toby that a prompt fix is better than weeks of faffing.
From the degradation pattern on the lcd I diagnose is not a loose cable but something mechanical.
Who’s emailing ultimaker, I can do it what details about our previous relationship should I mention? Any direct contact addresses?
Tommel sourced it via the mini maker fair that he ran, so he’s the only person with a direct contact. Unless he says otherwise, I would just approach them as a regular customer.
That was a great event, much missed in our household!
would now be a good time to say that display looks like a standard PG-2864 OLED Display ?
Courty
Now hiding under the table 
3 seconds googling suggests you’re right
“OLED display is compatible with: Ultimaker 2, Ultimaker 2 Go, Ultimaker 2 Extended. This part has been tested on our own Ultimaker 2 machines to insure proper operation and compatibility. The display has the Identical part number as factory original (See Photo) - PG-2864ALBP and is very difficult to find so take advantage of limited supply while available! OLED is blue like factory originals with 24 pin flat flex connector (FFC).”
But I also can’t find it for sale easily - @Courty you have a supplier?
Hi All – just wondering if someone is taking this in hand? I’ve come in to print something and it’s basically unusable. Jonathan.
Plug a USB cable in and control it through Cura? @jonathanjo
… it’s possible there are other issues too:
So I gave up for the day, thinking this is better for someone with more experience of the machine.
For what it’s worth, it doesn’t look like a mechanical problem with the display, more a fading component or some other kind.
@3dtechs help 
Jonathan
PS: Thanks @Dermot for USB suggestion, didn’t know you could do that.
This has been like this forever, seems to be okay.
Do you mean when the X/Y axis homes? It should hit the button stop and bounce, that’s how it works, it should be hitting the limit switches not the chassis, you’ll hear a single clear click noise from the microswitch versus a whirring of the stepper motor slipping.
This tends to happen when:
You can try resolving these issues or use a layer of pritt stick on the bed of the printer, ensure you clean it off after.
Hope that helps, otherwise hit up @laurent_muchacho for some help.
@jonathanjo I did some printing the other day and had similar issues to what you described with the first raft laser, a quick change of temp settings used resolved the issue. At 210deg and the default speed of the movement, the first layer failed multiple times, a change of the temp to 240deg printed correctly first time…
Your pla supply is probably different and may not require the same settings but it’s worth giving it a go…
Hope it helps.
Jonathan
@lewisss informs me that displays are available from China, so I’m going to order one.
Been reading some posts and it looks like a spare OLED screen can be purchased from fbrc8.com for $52.80 USD…
That’s cheap enpugh, but a lot of dough when there’s potentially better ways of interfacing with it.