this one from usa
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultimaker-2-OLED-Display-PG-2864ALBP-3D-Printer-Part-USA-Seller/322082194806?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3D257e1e5000f346adbb7020dc4a052d08%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D322082194806
or with some extra spares this one
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3D-Printer-Parts-Controller-Board-Controller-v2-1-Display-Kit-for-Ultimaker-2/221642702120?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D39068%26meid%3Dd0ea78ec7c4f41009968bf5b05098353%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D322082194806
2 Likes
@Dermot I know what you are saying. I believe OctoPi software and various devices can be an alternative way to control the printer but it’s a bit beyond my knowledge…
It’s something @laurent_muchacho has been talking about for a while, and mentioned earlier in this thread, I think.
Sorry guys we are launching the new ft website this week and been completely swamped.
Hopefully will have time to look into this in detail tonight
@Jonathan
I’ve looked into the belt before and it seems a common none affecting issue this mean that based on how the belt systems is implemented in the U2 the part that matter as proper tensions apply to it
Can you share the stl you are trying to print for me to have look
Assuming the LCD is not completely dead I will check the bed calibration and the soonest I can do it is Saturday
As advice go @unknowndomain domain is right however I will not advice using glue stick it just make a mess that is difficult to clean without using lot of the limited acetone we have alternatively you can remove the glass and wash it with fairy liquid or similar
Further more it’s a bad idea to print PLA above 220
@pip if I found a minute at lunch time I’ll look into getting the part we need
More at lunch time
Last things based on maintenance the printer might out of service for a short while. I will know more when I get the part and look at it on saturday
Actually been meaning to ask about this, I am not sure we should be using acetone, it was flagged during RA as being a safety issue due to the autoignition temperature being close to that of the 3D printer apparently. It would be better to use a degreaser like washing up liquid in a spray solution, thats what we’ve used and it gets off pritt stick really easily? Even just using window cleaner works really well as it’s acid breaks down any oils.
Many thanks all for suggestions. I did try cleaning with the nearby window-cleaner fluid, made sure fully dry before printing. For what it’s worth, I think the SD card interface is excellent, avoids all kinds of queue management issues we might get with other mechanisms.
Laurent: thanks for looking into it. STL attached. @laurent_muchacho
rfidcase.stl (5.6 KB)
Best regards,
Jonathan.
Have to agree, when I first had an Ultimaker years and years ago it was USB only, but then they made a controller interface and it made it so much better, stand alone printing.
Screen kit ordered. Estimated delivery date Monday 24th Oct
3 Likes
I fixed the slack belt this morning.
1 Like
So it was an actual issue? I thought that was supposed to be slack!
haha, no supposed to be even tension top and bottom, there are two main ways of causing it.
- stepper motor slips caused by hitting something on its travel
- the unit being picked up by the top front chassis
I also thought it being slack was just a general thing. Awesome it’s been sorted with whatever way sorting it is a thing.
Turns out CURA doesn’t let you interface with the controls that deeply (it has an option to use Pronterface UI, but this didn’t seem to work).
So, workaround is to load Pronterface and use it’s controls to load filament.
Downlaod from here: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/
Workflow: downlaod Pronterface, connect Ultimaker via USB, rub Pronterface.
Select ‘connect’ from menu along top, click on ‘set’ just to the right of ‘heat’
Find ‘Extrude’, set length to 600mm, speed to 300mm/min.
Get your filament ready at the back (as usual), click ‘Extrude’ and feed the filament in…
Should take it close to the hot end, then iunder ‘Extrude’, set length to 20mm to advance the filament in 20mm increments until it starts to ooze from then nozzle.
Feel free to improve this
Did the lcd arrive ok? When do you think it will be up and running? thanks!
It hadn’t arrived yesterday, so at the moment the printer’s still out of action
ok thanks
Estimated delivery : Mon. 24 Oct. - Tue. 15 Nov.
Ouch
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@laurent_muchacho does the rPi solution still need the LCD for bed levelling? This seems to be the impediment to operating it through Slic3r/Pronterface when @lewisss tried to find a workaround.
It’s not so much levelling more calibration so the printer knows the exact distance from nozzle to bed when it is homed