We did the same job on the small CNC with the same tool / material - came out fine…
We are thinking the calibration of the big one - or holding it with clamps is not strong enough to take the lateral forces…
Collets seem good - haven’t had any issues and have a torque wrench for that one so consistent
I’ll bring my 2-sided tape… that shit is powerful enough to hold anything down. That plus clamps will help answer the hold-down question at least.
The fact that the job runs fine on the small is interesting. Of course, it could be the calibration of the little guy that’s off in the way we expect! If everything fails I can bring back some of the same stock and try to run the gcode on mine here w/ that tool… see what’s what.
But yeah… maybe Just verifying some of the calibration setings. Notably the surface speed since that with the RPM and number of flutes should be enough to figure out the chipload, right? or something… I’ll check the formulas tonight. What time u getting in?
Nice one. So it clears the board in all directions now? Do we know how long the holes job will take? That might be a 2-shifter? Cause it’s all the holes x2 right?
Not to be a jerk or anything, but the next step… the billion holes, they don’t have to be FLAWLESS, right? I mean as long as the two boards get them holes in the same place we good? Is there logic in drawing a grid with a pencil, taking a powerdrill w/ the correct size bit/hole_saw and going to town? I know we have a CNC to do this, but… in fact this might even be more accurate cause when we flip the boards, we’re going to have to line them up using some reference on the bed, right? So it might be off by a few mm anyway… at least the grid way is fast and ensures the holes on the spoilboard and base match (even if not perfectly aligned with the bed) .
Yes! We moved the Y Axis relative to the bed and now can reach the whole board and have it lined up!
One set of holes was 3hrs or so - so x2 = 6hrs…
You make a great point! They are just for the hold downs, so really we could attach the boards together and just use the pattern to mark out the board down to 2 or 4mm (1-2 passes) and then use a hand drill to go the rest of the way!
I remember seeing a drill stand somewhere in the space. That’ll save you a bunch of time and will give you perfectly straight holes to the table. You’ll also not need to make a plunge cut on the router, perhaps just go in with a small bit to get a centre and then go the rest of the way with the drill.
Big enough to locate the drill also… one pass will be fast, and we need this to be easily repeatable, so better to have the CNC do as much as possible…