- This machine should not be operated without induction.
- This tool should not be used while alone in the space - lone working rule.
It’s for cutting neatly through material - even if it’s very thick - typically straight cuts, though slight curves are possible.
Height x Width x Depth: 2020 x 830 x 770 mm
approx. 159 kg
Weight: approx. 159 kg
Table height from floor: 945 mm
Throat capacity: 440 mm
Max. height of cut: 300 mm
Saw blade length/width: 3380/6-25 mm
Saw table: 535 x 720 mm, tilts from 90° through 45°
Blade speeds: 50 Hz, 68-176-375m/min
Motor: 1.1 kW/1.5 hp 230 V / 50 / Hz 1-phase
- Safety glasses are mandatory
- Do not wear loose clothing.
- Ensure long hair, jewellery, and any clothing drawstrings are securely tied back
- Sensible footwear with sturdy toes should be worn at all times in the workshop. Steel toe-caps are a bonus.
- Do not wear gloves - they are an entanglement risk with machine tools
- As with any power tool - be alert. Do not use the lathe when tired.
- Use guides and guards whenever possible
- This is a dynamic document, please let the @woodtechs know if there are any hazards or near misses that are not covered already.
- If anything looks or sounds out of the ordinary, please mark the machine out of order and contact @woodtechs immediately - it is not worth your safety and wellbeing to take any additional risks!
- Loss of fingers
- Loss of limb
- Exposure to high acoustic levels
- Inhalation of wood dust
- Fire risk
- Cuts from saw blade
- Hair or clothing entangled in blade
- Projectile injury
- Damage to eyes from particles
- Injury from falling onto blade
- Injury from trips or falls
- Burns from hot blade or bearings
Persons At Risk + Specific risks
- Injuries from flying parts
- Injury from slipping or tripping
- Chemical exposure to oil / coolant
Initial Assessment of Risk:
|Loss of fingers||4||3||12|
|Loss of limb||4||2||8|
|Inhalation of wood dust||2||3||6|
|Cuts from saw blade||3||3||9|
|Hair or clothing entangled in blade||4||3||12|
|Damage to eyes from particles||3||3||9|
|Injury from falling onto blade||4||2||8|
|Injury from trips or falls||4||2||8|
|Burns from hot blade or bearings||2||3||6|
- Users will be required to attend induction training to learn how to use the machine safely
- Tool control is enabled to prevent unauthorised use
- Learn the saw’s application and limitations as well as the specific hazards peculiar to it.
- WEAR PROPER APPAREL. Do not wear loose clothing, gloves, neckties, rings, bracelets or other jewellery which may get caught in moving parts of the saw.
- WEAR PROTECTIVE HAIR COVERING to contain long hair.
- WEAR SAFETY SHOES with non-slip soles.
- WEAR SAFETY GLASSES for cuts that create a lot of dust.
- WEAR FACE MASK OR DUST MASK if operation is dusty.
- KEEP WORK AREA CLEAN. Cluttered work areas and work benches invite accidents.
- Keep bystanders at a safe distance from the work area.
- KEEP GUARDS IN PLACE and in working order.
- MAKE ALL ADJUSTMENTS AND SET-UPS, such as tilting the table or adjusting the blade guards and blades guides, WITH THE POWER OFF.
- ADJUST BLADE TENSION, upper and lower blades guides, thrust bearings and blade tracking correctly.
- DOORS AND BLADE GUARD must be in place and securely fastened when performing saw operations.
- SECURELY LOCK ALL ADJUSTABLE PARTS so they can not loosen while sawing. This will prevent distraction from sawing operations.
- PLACE THE BLADE GUARD to within 5 mm above the material to be cut.
- ALWAYS KEEP HANDS AND FINGERS AWAY from the saw blade, especially at the end of a cut.
- DO NOT OVERREACH. Keep proper footing and balance.
- HOLD MATERIAL FIRMLY and feed into the blade at a moderate speed.
- USE A PUSH STICK OR A PIECE OF SCRAP WOOD to do the pushing and guiding when sawing small pieces which require the fingers to be close to the blade.
- DO NOT SAW STOCK that does not have a flat surface unless a suitable support is used.
- ALWAYS STOP THE MACHINE before removing scrap pieces from the table.
- STOP THE MACHINE if the material is to be backed out of an uncompleted cut.
- WHEN SAWING CURVES, make relief cuts to allow for removal of scrap material. This will help to prevent undue twisting or bending of the saw blade.
The relief cuts are made before starting the curved cut.
- DO NOT TOUCH HOT blade or bearings after use.
- NEVER LEAVE A TOOL UNATTENDED. Turn the power off and do not leave saw until it comes to a complete stop.
- DISCONNECT POWER. Turn switch off and disconnect power whenever the band saw is not in use.
- ISOLATE all power supplies before maintenance, cleaning and repairs.
- Defects are reported to @woodtechs to ensure all items are repaired or replaced
Final assessment of risk after :
|Loss of fingers||4||1||4|
|Loss of limb||4||1||4|
|Inhalation of wood dust||2||1||2|
|Cuts from saw blade||3||1||3|
|Hair or clothing entangled in blade||4||1||4|
|Damage to eyes from particles||3||1||3|
|Injury from falling onto blade||4||1||4|
|Injury from trips or falls||4||1||4|
|Burns from hot blade or bearings||2||1||2|
Always take the time to minimise risks.
RA Points System:
(click to expand)
|Hazard severity||Points Rating||Definition|
|Nil||1||Very minor injury, bruise, graze, no risk of disease.|
|Slight||2||Minor injury, which would allow the individual to continue work after first aid treatment on site or at a local surgery. The duration of the stoppage or treatment is such that the normal flow of work is not seriously interrupted.|
|Moderate||3||Temporary disability causing injury or disease capable of keeping an individual off work for three days or more and reportable under RIDDOR|
|High||4||Causing death, serious injury or permanent disability to an individual.|
|Very high||5||Causing multiple deaths and widespread destruction eg. fire, building collapse.|
|Hazard likelihood||Points Rating||Definition|
|Remote possibility||1||There is really no risk present. Only under freak conditions could there be any possibility of an accident or illness. All reasonable precautions have been taken - This should be the normal state of the workplace.|
|Unlikely||2||This incident or illness might occur but the probability is low and the risk minimal.|
|Possible||3||The accident may occur if additional factors precipitate it, but it is unlikely to happen without them.|
|Highly likely||4||Will happen more often than not. Additional factors could precipitate an incident but it is still likely to happen without this additional factor.|
|Inevitable||5||If the work continues as it is, there is almost 100% certainty that an accident will happen, for example:|
A broken stair or broken rung on a ladder Bare, exposed electrical conductors Unstable stacks of heavy boxes|
|Risk Rating Score||Definition||Action|
|1 to 4||Low||No action required|
|5 to 9||Moderate||Reduce risks if reasonably practicable|
|10 to 15||High Risk||Priority action to be undertaken|
|16 to 25||Unacceptable||Action must be taken IMMEDIATELY|
Risk Assessment Sign Off:
Director Sign Off:
##Anatomy of the tool:
Bed - this is a large square metal plate with a slit for the saw blade to pas through. There is an adjustable wooden fence attached to the bed. The bed is set at 90 degrees to the cutting blade, but bed can be adjusted so that it isn’t flat if a different angle is required - discuss this with a woodtech.
Blade/Band - the band saw is named after the cutting blade, which is one long flexible metal band (around 2.5 metres) with teeth on one side. We only see a small length of blade extending from the bed, but it runs a complete loop through the rest of the tool. The band is rotated very fast, to create a continuous cutting edge. This allows you to get a quicker, cleaner cut than with a jigsaw, where the blade has to move up and down. It also allows you to cut thicker material than with the jigsaw, mitre saw or table saw. As well as straight cuts, gentle curves are possible - more on this below.
Blade guard - this is a yellow, protective metal sheath which hangs down from the upper section of the tool, and serves two purposes: first, it helps keep the blade straight; and second, it reduces the amount of exposed band that could injure you! The blade guard should always be set as low as possible for the workpiece you are cutting - more on this below.
##Preparation for usage:
Isolate the tool by turning off its power supply - always do this before adjusting any powered tool.
Blade choice - different blades can be fitted to the band saw for cutting different materials, or cutting different angles of curve. A very wide band will cut straighter and resist turning more than a little bit, whilst a narrow band will enable you to cut tighter curves but may not cut such neat straight lines. Changing bandsaw blades is a specialist skill - discuss your project with a woodtech if you think it might be necessary.
Set fence - by loosening its handle and sliding across the bed to the cut width you require. The fence will help make a perfectly straight cut. If it prevents you getting your workpiece in the correct position, then the fence can be removed. Ensure you replace it afterwards!
Guard height adjustment - there is a large black plastic screw handle at the top of the guard (with a chunk missing), which holds the blade guard in place. Place your workpiece on the bed, and gently undo the black handle (lefty-loosey) . When the guard comes loose, slide it up or down to make sure there is around 5mm clearance between the top of the workpiece, and the very bottom of the guard. Now, re-tighten the black plastic handle.
Check tension control - the back of the bandsaw contains a chart listing what tension the blade should be under, depending on blade width and material. A window in the chart displays the current band tension, under the heading “TENSION”. If necessary, you can adjust the tension using the handle that sticks out of the bottom of the upper section of the band saw. This is visible in the photo below: the handle is beneath the chart, and bends at 90 degrees, with a black knob on the end. The handle turns both ways, and as it turns the tension displayed in the window will begin to move round towards either “low” or “high”.
Check if blade is correctly installed - if the blade moves backwards and forwards or side to side more than a tiny amount, then the blade is loose, meaning there is a greater risk of damage and injury. The tool is in a dangerous state and should not be used - contact the woodtechs
The image below shows the two sets of metal blade guides - one just beneath the bed, and the other hanging from the blade guard. Note: these are not clamps which hold the blade - there should be a very narrow gap between the blade and the guides, which ensures that the blade stays straight when cutting. If this gap is too wide, then the saw can move from side-to-side too much, which will give a poor cut and a greater risk of damage or injury. If the gap is too narrow, then the guides will damage the blade, and could be jammed by fragments of your material. Adjusting these is a specialist skill - if you are concerned, then ask a woodtech.
Adjust extractor gates - ensure that maximum suction is directed to the extraction pipe on the bandsaw, by opening the metal gate on the tubing to the bandsaw, and closing all the other gates in the extraction system.
Mark the cut across the top of your material - this will help ensure you cut correctly first time! This is especially important if you only need to cut part way into your material, rather than all the way through. Remember: measure twice, cut once.
Congratulations, you’re now ready to saw!
##Using the bandsaw
- Ensure you are wearing eye protection, and the power to the bandsaw is still off!
- Check that:
- Fence is in correct position and tightened
- Blade guard is set at the right height
- Blade is not loose
- Blade is not fouled by any small chunks of material from previous usage that have slid down the blade
- Material should not be in contact with the blade
- Turn on extraction, and power to the band saw
- Press the green button on the upper section of the bandsaw to start - wait a few seconds for the blade to get up to speed. If there are any unpleasant noises, kill the power, and contact a woodtech
- Make sure you are stood comfortably in front of the bandsaw, with the teeth of the blade pointing straight at you.
- Ensure that your fingers are always at least 6 inches from the blade - push your workpiece with a scrap offcut if necessary
- Do not put your fingers around the back of the guard, or go to grip the guard - the back of the fast-moving band is exposed, and can severely injure you.
- Hold the workpiece firmly, and push gently up to the blade until the teeth engage. Continue to gently feed the workpiece to the blade - the amount of pressure you need to apply will vary depending on material and depth. If there is any smoke, or a nasty whining noise, then you are using too much force! It should cut most material very smoothly and easily. Let the tool do the work.
- Ensure the blade follows your cut mark - remember that only slight curves can be cut with the bandsaw. Do not try to twist the work piece more than a few degrees to adjust the cutting path.
- If you have cut all the way through your workpiece, then press the red button to kill the power, and wait for the blade to stop moving fully before removing your workpiece form the bed.
- If you haven’t cut all the way through your workpiece, then you may find it easier to slide the workpiece back out whilst the saw is still powered. Be very careful not to twist the blade or cause friction with the back of the blade. Ensure that the teeth are not touching your material when you kill the power.
- Check for any small pieces of material which may have slipped down between the blade and the bed. If necessary, isolate the tool from power and clear these by hand/compressed air.
- If doing lots of cutting, then periodically isolate the tool from power and check the blade is not loose.
When finished with the tool
- Isolate the tool by turning off its power supply.
- Clean the bed, and make sure there are no small pieces of material between the bed and blade.
- Refit the wooden fence if you removed it.
- Sweep and hoover!