Any textiles gurus able to guide me please?

#1

@textilestechs & textile gurus - any assistance you can give will be very much appreciated.

I’m looking for some guidance concerning a waterproof cover I wish to make for my corner bench. I’d like to know what the best material would be and how best to go about achieving my aim.

I’m looking to buy some waterproof material and cut and stitch a bespoke cover for my corner bench. I’d like to sew in some sort of fasteners (poppers, or the like). I’d also like to try and follow the contours of the bench, so the cover fits over it snugly as opposed to fitting over it as a ‘box’ if that makes sense? Best way I can describe what I mean is when you have a car cover that is essentially car shaped with recesses for wing mirrors etc. I want the cover to be ‘L’ shaped and to originate on top of the bench, attaching to the bottom slat of the fence, then come down the seat backs, turning along the bench seat itself and then hanging over the edge of the seat where it’ll be fastened down. I assume each change of direction witll need a seam sewn in order to make this possible?

I’ve posted a pic for reference. I understand this is something that’ll probably be best discussed in person, so if anyone is around over the next week I can pop down if you’ll allow me to pick your brains.

Thanks everyone.

IMG_8976.JPG3264×2448 3.21 MB

#2

You’re right about the seams and changing direction. Although large, it is probably quite a simple pattern of rectangles and L shapes. Think of it like a net and brake it down into these basic shapes. Take the measurements and add a bit for wiggle room to get it on and a seam allowance. Do you want the poppers going up the side so you can close it around the bench? I think you are saying that you just want it covering the front, the back can get wet.

#3

Precisely - want the awning poppers to fasten the cover up around the sides, along the top and down below the seat (there the backs of your knees are when seated). The back of the bench doesn’t need a cover.

I’ve got a tonne of cardboard in my garage that I was thinking of using to make a life-sized template. Sellotape it all together to ensure it fits nice and snug. Then take it apart and use the pieces to size up the corresponding material shapes. The thing I need to know is how much slack do I leave for the seams? What sort of seams are best for waterproofing? How do I stitch it?

I’ve got a very good idea of how I want to do it, but I’ve had good ideas before and found out mid-way through that what I’m trying is not necessarily the best way to do it!

#4

IMG_1638.PNG2732×2048 1.13 MB

Very quick knock-up of the sort of thing I’m trying to achieve (side note - anyone wanna run 3D / CAD lessons, I’m in!)

#5

Poppers aren’t great ime. They cause quite a bit of stress where they pinch, and this is made greater when you pull on the surrounding fabric.

Consider eylets and turnbuttons?

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#6

So with regard to the seams you can either stitch them and then tape over the stitching with a special heat seal tape or you can do felled seams. There are good instructions here: https://themakersatelier.com/journal/sewing-waterproof-fabrics
Your pattern looks good. I’ve never seen the sloping thing before, I guess if it all pulled taught with no slack it might work, otherwise that is extra space for the water to pool. To that ends you might need more than the one popper on the side triangles. For what its worth I think it would work just as well without the slope if your seat is level. What kind of fabric were you thinking of using?

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#7

For clarity what I’m trying to say is the hypotenuse of your side triangles may collapse.
Also turn buttons look like a good shout.

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#8

Unless it is a heavyweight oilskin type fabric, these seams are unneccesary:

Screenshot_20170922-142033.jpg1080×1920 309 KB

If you took out the slopes then these seams would also be unneccesary:

Screenshot_20170922-142102.jpg1080×1920 312 KB

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#9

Would use double felled seams where possible.

And Beth has a good point on minimising the no of seams - personally I’d put the seams vertically wherever possible and use folds for horizontals - to minimise the amount of water flowing down that has to cross a seam.

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#10

Erm…lots of info there! Thanks guys.

@tomnewsom perfect. Was thinking of eyelets and hooks, but those look ideal.

@Beth If I used the fasteners tom mentioned, then I could pull it taught and have the slope to allow better drainage. I’m looking at using some form of waterproof canvass or pvu. Whatever is most durable for the price. The little triangles at the side are not a necessity. They may be swapped out for a really small lip that sits over the decking of the raised beds.

@Calum_Nicoll thanks for the heads up re horizontal seams. These are the sorts of things I need expertise on.

Thanks again all. Think I’ll go ahead with a cardboard prototype and photograph extensively so that I can show to people for them to get a better idea and be in a better position to offer advice.

#11

Just a thought - I made a huge sandpit with a heavy tarpaulin waterproof cover and the underside of the cover is a slug magnet. It’s quite unwieldy and heavy / awkward / unpleasant to handle when it’s wet and sluggy, and when you take it off you need somewhere to put it. Which is probably obvious but hadn’t occurred to me beforehand.

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#12

@Jackd a bit late, but this is the thread I was talking about. I have 7m of waterproof material now and 20 turnbuttons. Just have to cut it and stitch it. Any advice the better half can add to what’s already been said above would be appreciated.

@textilestechs I’ve attached a photo of the material I’ve got. It’s quite thick. Do we have a sewing machine capable of sewing this sort of material? Thanks.

waterproof
waterproof.jpg608×653 76.2 KB

#13

I have lasercut dacron/cordura and sewn it using the Janome machine. It is possible to cut items that are larger than the platter, but I only scroll the fabric on one axis, not both. I sew on normal tension with a stronger needle, nice and sharp. There is strong polyester black thread for these applications, also we can order the stronger thread in other colours.

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#14

Hi mate,

I will ask Lucy this evening for you and clarify but I think she said basically sewing is bad. There is some kind of heat weld tape you can apply.

Will revert back later!

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#15

@techfolderkites - I’m really sorry, but I didn’t understand any of that! Complete textile novice who hasn’t used a sewing machine since secondary school! I’ll hit google and see if I can decipher what you just said :joy: EDIT: I’ve had a google about and I’m still at a loss regarding the platter and axis bit. Are you able to elaborate please?

@Jackd - Thanks for that. Will wait and see what she says. I’m up for whatever is easiest to be fair. Cheers.

#16

@DAC17

If we have a machine that will go through the fabric then that would be the strongest. Just go slow and with a sharp needle with a strong thread! Heat weld might not be strong enough apparently but you can get an iron on waterproof tape to go over the seams afterwards.

Good luck!

2 Likes
#17

I can come in and share what I know, would be easier to share there. Let me know when you will be in.

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#18

Hey…Sorry it’s been a while, but just wondering if you’d still be up for running us through the workings of the janome at all?

the material I need to cut and stitch is 600-D Heavy Fabric Like Cordura Type, 23oz Waterproof Heavy Duty Fabric, 650gsm.

Any ideas what needle and thread I’d need to purchase to use on the machine?

Cheers.

#19

There is some very strong polyester thread used in sail making in the drawer labelled kite thread, I used a 90 or 100 needle, I think it was either for leather or jeans. I think the cordura is something between either needle, any sharp 90 needle would be fine I think. I’m away in Scotland, back Monday

#20

Perfect. I’m about Monday, Wednesday and Thursday next week. Most of the day and evening.

I’m not sure what a 90 or 100 needle are. Would you be able to post a link to the sort of thing I should be looking to order please? Don’t wanna get something that wouldn’t be suitable for the Janome. Cheers.