Saw sharpening 2

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I sharpened a couple of the large saws and a dovetail saw.
The Sandvic crosscut had never been sharpened before.
I worked out the rake (14 degrees)
and the fleam ( 15 degrees). 15 degrees of fleam is low but, it produces a strong edge, I left it as the manufacturer had intended.
A strong edge requires less frequent sharpening and is better suited to the rigors of the makerspace.
Crosscut teeth are harder to sharpen than rip teeth. It took me 20 minutes to do the crosscut saw.
Ten minutes for the rip saw.
The ripsaw still needs work as the remnants of the previous bad sharpening are still present on the tips of the teeth. However, it was about as much use as a marshmallow, now it is cutting at about 60 percent efficiency. It will get better with each subsequent sharpening.
The dovetail saw is cutting beautifully.
You can see in the photos the tools I find useful for saw sharpening.
Triangular files, a flat file, a small reference block, Sharpie, an angle gauge and a magnifying device. Each of my triangular files suits a specific tpi, 12, 9 and 5. Both of our panel saws are 9tpi, the dovetail saw is 12.
The photo looking down the blade of the crosscut saw is very nice. You can clearly see the distinctive crosscut profile of the teeth.
The piece of wood shows 3 cuts.
The first cut is fifteen strokes of the blunt crosscut saw, then another 15 strokes after initial sharpening. I wasn’t happy with it so I sharpened again and the resulting 15 stroke cut is even better. Like all blades, you reap what you sow.
The picture of the rip saw teeth shows the correctly sharpened shiny teeth on the right and the badly, ‘sharpened’ teeth on the left.
We now have three serviceable saws. I have written the tooth geometry angles on the saw plates if you are interested in finding a sharp saw amongst the plethora of saw shaped objects.
Mmmmm donuts!

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Top man! Great work, especially on that misshapen saw. Thanks for putting in your time and effort, the results pic speaks for itself :+1::+1:

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