Hi guys, sorry I didn’t do a terribly good job documenting this one. I’ve gotten a new camera recently with half an idea of getting back into doing some video work and thus found myself in need of some microphones. Obviously I could just buy them but I’m sure I don’t have to tell you bunch that it’s a lot more fun and a better learning experience to try and make something yourself.
Recently I’ve been following along with this gentleman’s excellent tutorials and while I can’t say I’m absorbing 100% of the technical aspect of why he makes certain design decisions, I am picking up a lot and the builds are so well documented I’ve managed to make what I consider to be quite capable microphones just by following along.
My most recent project was a ORTF Stereo Microphone designed to mount and plug directly into a camera. This arrangement uses two microphone capsules positioned 17 cm apart and at 110 degrees from each other, mimicking the position of ears on the human head. The result is apparently a realistic stereo effect (amongst other things) and my experience testing the mic confirms this.
Jules provides files for the production of a bar with this angle and spacing set already, and one needs only slot in the microphone capsules in the appropriate notches. I opted to 3d print it at home as that is what I have on hand:
He then suggests using some cheap plastic hair rollers to act as baskets for the microphone capsules, but I didn’t want to buy a whole pack of future landfill fodder so I designed little baskets myself to slide on:
After soldering the capsules (I stuck with the ones he recommends) I carefully thread the cables through the baskets/fiddly bits and triple checked the left and right channels with a multimeter. It would not have been a huge deal to goof here as I could just flip the bar upside down, but the print had a “nice side” and I wanted to route the cords along the bottom. I then soldered the 3.5mm stereo connector and covered the capsule baskets with a layer of sheer nylon and faux fur for wind protection. I also added an adapter for the camera’s hotshoe through the hole in the centre.
Here’s the final result:
I still have lots to learn but I’m chuffed with it.