Mirror stand

#1

Starting out with what I think should be a small, straightforward project.

We have a freestanding ikea mirror that is currently held in place by a big ugly plastic box being put in front of it to stop it slipping/moving. Could get some anti-slip feet for it and probably call it a day, but a bump could still send it toppling.

So what I want to do is add a heavy-ish base to it that will stop the bottom slipping out and prevent any bumps to the top from sending it over. And for an added bonus would like to incorporate a holder for a hairdryer.

First time using Fusion 360, but here are some pictures of the design:

Stand%20front%20view
Stand front view.jpg1520×850 196 KB

Stand%20left%20view
Stand left view.jpg1520×850 176 KB

Stand%20side%20view
Stand side view.png1520×850 50.2 KB

Stand%20back%20view
Stand back view.jpg1520×850 199 KB

Stand%20base%20view
Stand base view.jpg1520×850 275 KB

Front%20view%20with%20mirror
Front view with mirror.jpg1520×850 242 KB

Back%20view%20with%20mirror
Back view with mirror.jpg1520×850 220 KB

I have a few questions:
1 - I was hoping to use a single solid (and heavy) piece for the base. It’s designed at 100mmx100mm but not sure this is easily available from places like SLHardwoods? It’s basically the size of a fencepost, but not sure construction-grade timber is what I want to use. Any suggestions? Both for where to buy and which wood might work best?

2 - For the holes in the base I want to place some sort of rubbery cylinders to act as grip, but can’t seem to find anything like what I want online, googling for anti-slip rubber feet inserts just returns cheap looking screw-in feet (rather than “inserts”). Any thoughts?

3 - the stand is designed to have the mirror leaning backwards (so the top of the mirror will touch the wall, as will the back of the base of the stand. Therefore the cutouts will need to be at a tiny bit of an angle (1.9 degrees ish). Any tips on creating these to a reasonable level of precision?

Any other feedback is welcome - this is my first time using CAD.

#2

Instead of one solid 100x100 block, you can laminate two 50x100 blocks. Or however many pieces. It’s a good exercise to practice the hand planes as well!

For the rubber bits try getting a rubber sheet, cutting out circles, and glue them into shallow recesses

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#3

Any suggestions for a heavy but easy to plane wood?

#4

Sapele is pretty easy. But ash, oak, and beech are fine and relatively dense as well.

They’re all easier to plane when using a sharpened blade

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#5

For your angle make some wedges the angle you want and put it under your piece. The make the holes on the pillar drill. Then join the holes with chizzels.

If you had router induction I would suggest making a wedge and putting it on the router

To make wedges use a square edge and add the angle with the mitre saw

#6

Next plan is router. Those things are far too useful for their own good.

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