Dowel jig

Tags: #<Tag:0x00007fa49ae70400> #<Tag:0x00007fa49ae70220>

Do we have a dowel jig in the space? Want to accurately put some dowels in some 19mmx19mmx150mm to create several end-to-end joints for a tabletop/chopping board. They’re too small for a domino.

@woodworkers

We used to!

Any idea where it lived?

Hi James.
I have this stunning piece of kit from Wnew. It has bushings for 8mm and 10mm dowels. It has bushings for cam bolt fastenings too. The bushings attach via a m14 screw, and you can get 4mm, 5mm, 6mm bushings to facilitate different dowel sizes. I will get a set of 4mm and 6mm before Xmas. It can be attached to boards 15-30mm thick, but you can also add slithers to facilitate smaller dimension boards. Use a fast clamp, and it’ll do dowels spaced evenly like using the Domino tool from Festool. In fact I call this jig the Domino buster. You will enjoy using for sure.

I’m in today… I’ll pack it in my kit right now and be in the space from early afternoon. Just bring 8mm or 10mm dowels as I’m running low.

1 Like

I’ll probably only make it in around 5 30 today but will be there til late. If that doesn’t work will have to catch you another time! Looks beautiful.

I can come to space a little later and be there until around 8. I’ll bring my fast clamp too as glued up clamps in space might pose a problem. See you this evening.

1 Like

I’ve seen a doweling jig in a box above the mitre saw recently

2 Likes

Yes we have one of the cheap ones that finds the edge centre by tilting it until pins touch opposite sides diagonally. Getting the same alignment on the face of the adjoining board is more of a challenge.

I’ve got one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08N51FDL8

Very similar to the one in @Janoche’s OP.

It’s… OK. You can’t guarantee an exact board edge centreline hole, but the distance from the edge is repeatable. So long as you maintain the same orientation for both pieces, they’ll line up exactly. However, the other direction is not as repeatable. The reference edge swaps sides when you switch between edge and face holes, so you’re at the mercy of the manufacturing tolerance, which for mine means you end up with a 0.5-1mm step where the edges meet. Not great, but if you account for it with a shim or whatever when setting up the jig each time, it comes out ok.

Hang on, a picture speaks a thousand words.

C is consistent, but if B/=A then you get a misalignment. This would also apply for end-to end joints as you rotate the jig 180° between the two pieces.

EDIT: Oh, and I would not recommend using brad point drill bits with it. The flutes are so wide, and the guide collar so short, that there’s a good amount of wobble in it. A standard twist bit is more reliable.

1 Like