I’ve recently got my 2012 vintage Prusa Mendel (i2?) going again and am looking for calibration files. Have things moved on from the cubes and hollow walls and steps I was using a fee years back?
This is the set I use
The box is good to start and then the thin wall box is great for accuracy
Courty
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This is the final and ultimate test, does bridging and towers too
Courty
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Well, I had a go at printing this monster…how far did it get? I left @frasco holding the baby…
It did very well… the only real issue was stringing and that can normally be fixed by adding retraction to your setup
Courty
Thanks for taking this.
That’s a lot of stringing. I think I had retraction set at 1mm, so I can up that a bit. Might edit that bit of the model to do a stringiness test.
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Can someone make sure my 3d printer is unplugged?
Plus @Courty is that you playing with the entry system?
I think @frasco may have unplugged it already (I’ve left now)
Yes, guilty of playing with the membership system.
Got the prototype wifi tool bot working fully tonight but was having an issue. May need a hand from @systems… I can send a request for ‘door’ and ID to the membership system and get a proper response (approved or denied) but when I send ‘laser’ or ‘laser-se’ and ID or any of the other codes I just get an error back… I will have a look at GitHub at the rest of the code but it just seemed odd…
Courty
Yes, I unplugged it when the job finished.
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could also be over extruding and could try increasing the movement speed (not overall or print speed)
retraction takes pressure off the filament but does not pull back the melted part. so you get ooze. moving faster between printed elements reduces the amount of ooze over the same distance.
a lower temperature would help as well
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Yeah, I was thinking of trying to reduce temp. I’ll experiment with movement speeds too. I really wish I’d written down what I knew before…
here is a good file to test the ooze/stringing problems
and an article for the theory behind the solution.