I made one, it took about an hour, including dimensioning the timber. I drilled a hole for the screw with my electric drill. Despite a centered start it drifted. It still worked fine but it really bugs me when I have to look at inaccurate stuff. So I did it all again in thirty minutes and made a really good crosscut with a rip tooth tenon saw. The previous crosscut with a dedicated Japanese saw was a mess. For the hole I used an egg beater and as is always the way it was dead on. I can’t wait to get a dedicated European crosscut backsaw. Anyway I just used the guide and the blade is incredibly sharp. The hairs actually leap when I cut them. There is a slight nuanced difference between shaving hair and a blade which is shaving hair plus. When the blade is super super sharp the hairs ping away from the blade. I still have a little work to do on the back of the blade. I don’t stress about achieving perfect blades anymore. I just get them close to perfect and then I know because of the way I sharpen that they will get really good. Over time good technique leads to an inevitable outcome which obviously is good enough to cut wood. I am going to see if I can squeeze better function out of the spokeshave next. Curved sole spokeshaves are often very chattery and this spokeshave is no exception. I will have to see if I can improve the mating surfaces in a way which noticeably improves the function. I will probably flatten the area across the mouth too.
That sounds great! Do you have pictures?
Can you tell me what the role of a host is and are we allowed to use the machines in the woodwork shop?