Hardwood group buy #2

#21

No problem! Remember though that unlike PAR you will lose several mm of thickness, especially on long boards, so you need to buy at least 5mm over.

@rosszeibari when would you be available?

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#22

Too late to add to the order? @Barnaby_Coote

#23

No, go for it!

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#24

Might need your help a bit on this one…

I’m going to make a fairly premium looking box that i’m going to stain into a dark wood.
I’m thinking American cherry would be best for this but i’m stuck at getting either sawn board, which will give me the surface area I need, but will need to cut it in half through the middle to get the thickness that i’m after (i don’t think there is an easy way to do this with the tools that we have?)
Or,
Planed planks that will give me the thickness I’m after but I will need to double them up to get the surface area I need, which also creates a seam in the wood grain that may affect it aesthetically.

Either way it comes to about £30 - £35 so price isn’t really a factor.

Any thoughts on how to approach this?

#25

What thickness do you need ?

#26

i’m looking for around 15mm

The surface area of the largest size of the box will be around 235 x 350mm

#27

Sawn will work out cheaper than PAR in most cases. They charge you quite a lot for the extra work of planing it.

235mm is on the wider end for a single board. It wouldn’t be uncommon to make it out of 2.

25mm is what you’d buy to make 18mm PAR boards, but yes for 15mm it’s a bit of a shame to remove so much wood. If you can wait a bit for the bandsaw to be fixed, you could buy 40mm thick and ask a woodtech to split it in two 20mm halves (I have done this with a handsaw, it’s arduous, but doable if you have a steady hand) You would then to plane it down to get rid of the saw marks (plane one face a bit, assemble, then plane the assembled board down to 15)
The added benefit of this is if you assemble two boards they will match and the seam will be less visible.

I think that assembling from PAR you will still need to plane a bit to get rid of the seam, so better to work on something a bit thicker anyway.

Other option is to get 25mm and just plane down to 15. You could also use thin mdf or ply for the back and veneer it, and just use solid wood for the sides.

#28

If you go down the hand-saw route for re-sawing your boards I can help out. I have a kerfing plane that makes keeping straight much easier and a really aggressive japanese rip saw for doing the leg work. It is a lot of elbow grease though!

3 Likes
#29

googles
…
Ingenious!

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#30

That looks like a great piece of kit.

I don’t mind a bit of hard work haha, this seems like a plan.

Is it easy enough to keep a straight edge if done properly? or does it still take a bit of skill?

#31

If you kerf both sides it should keep the saw straight. Good to check the back side every so often though.

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#32

Takes a little bit of care, not so much skill. I used to do it with a thinner plated japanese saw and really struggled with keeping that going straight but the new, thicker saw seems to do a lot better. A mirror is suprisingly useful for making sure you are tracking straight on both sides.

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#33

I think ill give it a go :slight_smile:
I’m going to be hiding most of the internals anyway, so a few crimes wont matter. Thanks for your help :slight_smile:

How do you want paid @Barnaby_Coote? Send you money before or after the purchase?

#34

Oh yes. I was planning to try and make a kerfing plane.although yes I imagine the process bein labour intensive

#35

(Sorry for derailing this thread a bit :grimacing:)

I’ve built a non-adjustable one and learnt quite a few things in the process so we should chat at some point :slight_smile:

#36

I’d be interested to make a kerfing plane

#37

For some reason I can’t edit the wiki any more.

I also want 2 x PAR boards, 19mm x 165mm x 2.4m
And six dowels 310mm long.

Either ash, beech or maple, I’ll decide when I see them all.

I want to cut the boards to 1100mm lengths and then cut each one into lots of square strips 19mm wide. Will that work on the table saw? I want to make a shoe rack like this one: https://woodworking.formeremortals.net/2015/01/make-shoe-rack/

Shall we try to go to SL one day next week? I’m keen to get cracking on my projects.

#38

I won’t be back for about three weeks, so feel free to go without me!

#39

We should have a good range of hand made tools by end of winter :smiley:

#40

OK I might go on Monday then as I have a whole day free. I’m just a bit nervous about choosing sawn boards by myself without really understanding what I’m looking at. Does anyone else want to come?

And will my plan to cut the boards into strips work or would they be too thin to do that safely on the table saw? Thanks!